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INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS FOR ALL PRODUCTS

HOW TO INSTALL YOUR SOLAR ATTIC FAN


Power-Save Solar Attic Fan reduces your bill by up to 30% by removing the heat from your attic without depending on a windy day.

INSTALLING FOR SOLAR ATTIC FAN

1)  In your attic, mark the location of your solar-powered vent between two roof rafters.

2)  drive a nail through the center of vent location.

3)  Install roof brackets and fall-arrest system to roof

4)  Scribe outline of vent's flashing on roof using homemade dowel compass.

5)  Cut shingles along circular outline with a utility knife, cut a 4-inch slit throught the shingles and the tarpaper at the 3 and 9 o'clock position of the flashing.This allows for the flashing to be inserted under the shingles.

6)  Pull nails and remove shingles from within the circle.  Insert the reciprocating saw blade sideways at the 3 o'clock position and commence cutting roofing nails up and around to the 9 o'clock position.  The process removes the nails that will prevent the flashing from sliding up underneath the shingles.

7)  Use compass to scribe a hole for vent onto roof sheathing.

8)  Cut hole in the roof with a reciprocating saw.

9)  Remove shingles from around the vent opening.

10) Apply continuous bead of tri-polymer roofing cement around hole.

11) Set roof vent over hole, then screw the fan's flashing to roof.  Caulk underside of flashing with the provided caulking material, Two concentric rings of caulking material are          sufficient

12)Taking care not to smear caulk on the exposed shingles, slide flashing under tar paper and shingles and force flashin up until the shingles come in contact with the raised portion of the flashing.  The bottom side of the flashing will be on the top of the shingles. Secure the flashing with 4 hex head screws at the 3:00, 6:00, 9:00 & 12:00 positions.  The screws are placed under the shingles.   At the 6:00 position, caulk over the screw head sinse it will be exposed to the weather.  Use remaining caulk to seal the areas where the 4" slits were made. and around the area where the shingles meet with the raised area of the flashing.

video:   

http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/video/0,,20047003,00.html

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INSTALLATION OF PU 3200 & PU 3400 POWER SAVE UNITS

Both units have 4 wires exiting the bottom through a "non-metallic connector"

Both units can be installed as follows:

1.  Using flex conduit and connector feed the 4 wires (3 red and 1 green) to the panel and connect the 3 red wires to a breaker and the green wire to the ground bar.

2.  Using a fused or non-fused disconnect interface the unit into the electrical system

When installing the 3200 use a 30 amp three pole breaker.  When installing the 3400 use a 40 amp three pole breaker

In either method of install, and with both units, make certain the power is off until the unit is installed completely, then turn the power on (throw the breaker on, or engage the disconnect box) and check to make certain the light is on.

If the light is not on, check the breaker, ground, and disconnect box for secure connections.

Both units will work in a 208 / 480 environment 50/60 HERTZ

HOW TO INSTALL ENERGY SAVING KIT

Power-Save Radiant Barrier & Duct Seal

Most residential roofs provide some trype of attic or airspace that can accommodate an effective radiant barrier system.  In new residential construction, it is fairly easy to install a radiant barrier system.  5 possible locations for the installation of an attic radiant barrier system.

Location 1 is a relatively new application, where the radiant barrier material is attached directly to the underside of the roof deck.

Location 2 may offer advantages to the builder during construction of a new house.  Before the roof sheathing is applied, the radiant barrier is draped over the rafters or trusses in a way that alows the product to droop 1-1/2 to 3 inches between each rafter.

In location 3 & 4, the radiant barrier is attached to either the faces or the bottoms of the rafters or top chords of the roofs tresses.  this can be used with either new construction or with retrofit of an existing house.  With either location, 2,3, or 4, the space between the roof shealthing and the radiat barrier provides a channel through which warm air can move freely

In location 5, the radiant barrier is laid out on the attic floor over the top of existing attic insulation.  As discussed previously, this location is susceptible to the effects of dust accumulation.  this location is not  appropriate when a large part of the attic is used for storage, sinse the radiant barrier surface must be exposed to the attic space.  Also, kitchen and bathroom vents and recessed lights should not be covered with the radiant barrier.

To obtain the best performance with radiant barriers installed in locations 1 through 4, radiant barrier material should also be installed over the gable ends.  for attics that are open to the space over garages or carports, the radiant barrier should extend eight feet or more into the garage or carport to achieve the smae effect as installing it on the gable ends.

It is not necessary to cover the gable ends with location 5.

Radiant barriers that are reflective on one or both sides may be used with any of these locations.  However, if it is reflective on only one side, the reflective side must face toward the main attic space for locations 1 and 5.  since a surface facing downwards is less likely to have dust settle on it, it is also recommended that the reflective side face downwards toward the main attic space for Locations 2, 3, and 4.

Since proper attic venting is important to obtain the best performance of the radiant barrier, some modification in the attic vents may be required to achieve expected performance.  Where no ridge or gable vents exist it is recommended that one or the other be installed.  Always check exsisting ridge vent systems to ensure the roofing paper is not blocking the vent opening, and check the soffit vents to ensure that they hve not been covered with insulation.

When installing a radiant barrier, care should be taken not to compress existing insulation present in the attic.  The effectiveness of the existing insulation is dependent upon its thickness, so if it is compressed, its R-value is decreased. For instance, an  R-19 batt compressed to 3-1/2 inches (to top of 2x4 attic floor joists) would now be approximately an R-13 batt.

SAFETY CONSIDERATIONS:

*  The installer should wear proper clothing and equipment as recommended by the  radiant barrier manufacturer. Handling conventional insulation may cause skin, eye, and respiratory system irritation.  If in doubt about the effects of the insulation, protective clothing, gloves, eye protection and breathing protection should be worn.

*   Be especially careful with electrical wiring, particularly around junction boxes and old wiring.  Never staple through, near, or over electrical wiring.  Repair any obviously frayed or defective wiring in advance of radiant barrier installation.

*  Work in the attic only when temperatures are reasonable.

*  Work with a partner.  Not only does it make the job go faster, it also means that you'll have assistance should a problem occur.

*  If the attic is unfinished, watch where you walk.  If you step in the wrong place, you could fall through the ceiling.  Step and stand only on the attic joists or trusses or the center of a strong moveable working surface.

*  Watch your head!  In most attics, roofing nails penetrate through the underside of the roof.  A hard hat may be of some use.

*  Make sure that the attic space is well ventilated and lighted.

*  Do not cover any recessed lights or vents with radiant barrier material.(attic floor application)


DUCT SEALING IS A COMBO OF RADIANT BARRIER AND METAL TAPE

1) Tape all seams in duct work

2) Wrap all duct work with radiant barrier

3) Use same tape to attach radiant barrier to duct work and seal all seams   TADAAA!!!  Your'e done!

 

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